If you are into vitamin C, you cantake a look at more promising derivatives here. In this case, mica is coated with one or moremetal oxides (most commonly titanium dioxide) to achieve pearl effect via the physical phenomenon known as interference. Its a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. We accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover and American Express. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. It's simple. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". An error has occurred. The former one is common for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. While pure shea butter is a rich emollient that might feel greasy on the skin, this one is designed for its light, silky-soft feeling. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. Ci 77891 is the color code of titaniumdioxide. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitaminC, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not evenin-vitro,about it. Works in synergy with Vitamin C. Sunflower Oil - it's a great emollient that protects & enhances the skin barrier. Its a common fragrance ingredient that has a light floral smell. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. It can also be a solvent and canfight against microbes and insects very well. with many uses including as a shoe polish, food additive and motor lubricant. A vegetable wax coming fromthe leaves of the Brazilian tropical palm tree,Copernicia cerifera. A common fragrance ingredient that has a faint sweet balsamic smell. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Each retailer has a pricing policy that can be found on that retailer's page. That is probably no coincidence. You can track your order's progress and communicate with your shopper every step of the way using the Instacart app or website. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. A clear, slightly yellow, odorless oil that's a very common, medium-spreadingemollient. The former one is common for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. with many uses including as a shoe polish, food additive and motor lubricant. Chemically speaking, it is a mixture of iron II and iron III oxide. A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid, waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency building material. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. No wonder its popular. The answer is its main fatty acid, called ricinoleic acid (85-95%). is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Here's a breakdown of Instacart delivery cost: When an item you want is out-of-stock at the store, your shopper will follow your replacement preferences. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility. It makes the skin feel nice and smooth and works in a wide range of formulas. The only good thing we can write about Ascorbyl Palmitate is that there is an in-vitro (made in the lab, not on real people) study showing that it might be able toboost collagen production. Chemically speaking, it is hydrated iron III oxide and depending on the conditions of manufacture, it can range from a light lemon to an orange-yellow shade. Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is bothocclusive and humectant. Similar to other waxes, it is used to stabilize and give body to products. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Red Iron Oxide is the super common pigment that gives the familiar, "rust" red color. Sunflower does not need a big intro as you probably use it in the kitchen as cooking oil, or you munch on the seeds as a healthy snack or you adore its big, beautifulyellow flower during the summer - or you do all of these and probably even more. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility. dissolves in alcohol but not in mineral oil), and it allows all kindsof chemical modificationsother oils do not, hence the lots ofCastor oil-derived ingredients. Unlike other fatty acids, ricinoleic acid has an extra water-loving part (aka -OH group) on its fatty chain that gives Castor Oil several unique properties. CI 77492 or Iron Oxideis a common colorant with the color yellow. Black Iron Oxide is thesuper common inorganic(as in no carbon atom in the molecule)pigmentthat controls the darkness of your foundation or gives the blackness to your mascara. And by even more we mean putting it all overyour face as sunflower oil is one of the most commonly used plant oils in skincare. A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid, waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency building material. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! It's also often used to create liposomes. Its a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. Titanium dioxide as a colorant. Using the Instacart app or website, select a store of your choice near you that offers pickup, select Pickup, and then select your preferred pickup location from which you'd like to place your order. Blended with red and black iron oxides, it is essential in all "flesh-toned" makeup products. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. Not really that good. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android, Google Play and the Google Play logo are trademarks of Google LLC. Its comedogen index is 0, meaning that it's pretty much an all skin-type oil. Learn more about instructions for specific items or replacements here. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. It gives the look a natural finish and is perfect for any outfit, skin tone and occasion. It is also the one that gives the pink tones in your foundation. Blended with red and black iron oxides, it is essential in all "flesh-toned" makeup products. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. It's one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately because ofallergen potential. Using the Instacart app or website, shop for products from your store of choice near you. CI 77499 or Iron Oxideis a super common colorant with the color black. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties;following UVB radiation (the same one that comesfrom the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. The unrefined version(be sure to use that on your skin!) Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. While it is very unlikely (and this is true for pretty much every ingredient), cases of reactions to castor oil have been reported, so if your skin is sensitive, it never hurts to patch test. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. Thanks. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Flower Extract, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. Chemically speaking, it is iron III oxide (Fe2O3). In cosmetics it's quite the multi-tasker: it's an emollient and water-binding ingredient but it's also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. Unless you live under a rock you must have heard about shea butter. This does not mean thatascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable ifascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. Btw, this guy, unlike the yellow and red pigments, is magnetic. But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin,protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is bothocclusive and humectant. A vegetable wax coming fromthe leaves of the Brazilian tropical palm tree,Copernicia cerifera. So what is so special about it? An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cellcultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. It is the hardest natural wax with a high melting point (around 85C) and high gloss making it a great wax choice for lip products. It is an age-old ingredient (its over 4,000 years old!) Once you place your order, Instacart will connect you with a personal shopper in your area to shop and deliver your order. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. (Btw, if you do not know whatthe big deal with vitamin C is then you are missing out. You would be reasonable to think that putting shoe polish on your face wouldnt be the best idea, but it turns out castor oil has some unique properties that make it a stalwart in thick and gloss-giving formulas (think lipsticks and highlighters). Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. A white powdery thing that's the major component of glass and sand. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard. A real multi-tasker. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). The latter one, the humectant property,issurprising and comes from the unique property ofricinoleic acid (the dominant fatty acid in castor oil) having an extra water-loving -OH group on its otherwise oil-loving fatty chain. In the Instacart app or website, you can report: The price for this product is set by the individual retailers and varies among them. If you experience any of the following issues, you're eligible for a refund or credit: damaged/missing items, poor item replacements, late arrival or unprofessional service. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. Our intro did get pretty big after all (sorry for that), so let's get to the point finally: sunflower oil - similar to other plant oils - is a great emollient that makes the skin smooth and nice and helps to keep it hydrated. It is also the most commonly used "base" material for layered composite pigments such as pearl-effect pigments. According to The National Sunflower Association, there is evidencethat both the plant and its oil were used by American Indians in the area of Arizona and New Mexico about 3000 BC. In cosmetics, its often in products that are supposed to keep your skin matte as it has great oil-absorbing abilities. The manufacturer claims that it has a great sustainability profile, long lasting stability and a unique, light and silky feel that's ideal as a base for modern, eco-friendly body lotions and facial care products. Even if it can beconverted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). Other than that, it is a very effective emollient and occlusive that reduces skin moisture loss so it is quite common in smaller amounts in moisturizers. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Iron Oxide - a super common colorantwith the color red. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. It is an age-old ingredient (its over 4,000 years old!) Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Castor oil is sourced from the castor bean plant native to tropical areas in Eastern Africa and the Mediterranean Basin. Its a common fragrance ingredient that has a light floral smell. One of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately because ofallergen potential. It is alsomore glossy than other oils, in fact,itcreates the highest gloss of all natural oils when applied to the skin. Similar to other waxes, it is used to stabilize and give body to products, or to keep stick type formulas solid. It is a multi-tasker used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. A white powdery thing that can mattify the skin and thicken up cosmetic products. A very common ingredient that can be found inall cell membranes. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. It's a popular duo. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C.Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. If something isn't right, you've got options. A common fragrance ingredient that has a faint sweet balsamic smell. A shea butter based ester that gives the skin a light and silky-soft feel. It's also loaded withfatty acids(mostly linoleic (50-74%) and oleic (14-35%)). Castor oil is sourced from the castor bean plant native to tropical areas in Eastern Africa and the Mediterranean Basin. Learn more about how to place an order here. Yellow Iron Oxide is the super common inorganic (as in no carbon atom in the molecule) pigment that gives the yellow tones in your foundation. It also protects the surface of the skin and enhances the damaged or irritated skin barrier. We have some more info about this at castor oil, so if you are interested, read on here. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. It's also often used to create liposomes. You must go and read our geeky detailsabout it.). Its also used as a helper ingredient to thicken up productsorsuspendinsoluble particles. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. Please click on each retailer to see that retailer's price for this product. We are highly skeptical what effect a tiny amount of AP has in a formula. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. It can also be a solvent and canfight against microbes and insects very well. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. Please try again later! Do the math: it's more than 5000 years definitely an oldie. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. If an order never came, or you get someone else's order, you can reach out to Instacart Care. The hydrating nude lipstick nourishes the lips with castor oil and shea butter, doesn't contain silicones or alcohol and is proven to provide moisture. First, it is thicker than other oils, then its solubility is different (e.g. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. A mineral powder used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product some light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent. An "eco-designed" emollient ester coming from shea butter. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Contactless delivery is available with our "Leave at my door" option. Its a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type andeasy to formulate with. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide.