I decided to sew the dress entirely with French seams, as I love a good French seam in rayon. Any fabric can be pants fabric if you put your mind to it! Yeah, Im not about to sew all those myself or drag them around with me on a plane. Stitch Sew Shop / Alexandria, VA Q: Will you come to (my state) and teach a workshop? It can be a bit confusing if youre not used to it but it does admittedly have a nicer finish, I think! Two down, one more to go! Fitting is a journey, and a lot of things just arent clear until youve worn your garment around for a few days. Since the fabric is non-stretch, it does start out quite tight (I wouldnt say that it is necessarily uncomfortable, but it is restrictive especially in comparison to how stretch jeans feel!) This lemon print is from Workroom Social, from their Miramar Fabric line. Since this denim is indigo dyed, it is imperative that you prewash your fabric multiple times before cutting into it. But I dont want to bank on maybe.). It will shrink quite a bit, plus it bleeds a LOT! I think thats it for this dress! Whats your sewing goal for 2017? ), took photos a month ago, and am now finally getting around to posting it! That being said, I do enjoy seeing new things that are being released especially when they cater to different styles and sizes! It looks very designer to me. February 24-26, 2017 Absolutely perfect for this jeans pattern. Jennifer is incredibly brilliant businesswoman and teacher, plus we work super well together. Come to Brooklyn and take the Pants Making class, ok? And sleeveless, so it works in both summer flyin solo, or in winter under a sweater or cardigan. I also left off the buttons students simply pin the waistband shut when they try on the sample. Fit-wise, these are great for me right out of the envelope. These arent the best it was windy as hell, and for some reason I decided to take photos where Id have to straddle over a fucking hole in the ground but you know what, it works, and Im moving on. After some internal debate as well as a few conversations with Jennifer about my plans (I wanted her blessing before I did anything I am not in the business of stepping on anyones toes here, yall) I decided to bite the bullet and make up my own batch of Ginger Jeans samples. Furthermore, Cone Mills just closed its White Oak plant at the end of 2017, which could potentially make the denim even harder to source in the future (or they move production offshore, or someone buys the plant to continue operating it who knows? I used black thread with a triple stitch for the topstitching, and thread bartacks in place of rivets. In addition to my teaching rates, I also have travel and lodging expenses. Sew the facing to the top of your jeans, with the right side of the facing against the inside of the pants, like so. Overall, I am extremely happy with the fit and the general proportions of everything I was initially a little concerned that the back pockets were too high, but after some wearing around + a very enthusiastic discussion on Instagram I have come to terms with my mom-butt. If you have a local shop that is interested in hosting me for a weekend workshop, lets get in touch and plan something! Flat-felled seams on the inside, quilting cotton pockets (1-2 fat quarters is all you need! I have taught this class for a few years now, and it just gets better every time I come back! I use Soak Wash for all my hand-washing needs lingerie, clothing, etc because you dont have to rinse it. Dont carry a white purse, save your white undies for a different pair of pants, and for the love of god do not wash these in a load with anything but black fabric. Tags: completed, jeans, jeans making intensive, linen, Morgan jeans, pants, workroom social. As someone who specializes in teaching Sew Your Own Jeans Weekend Workshops, Im admittedly not the best at trying out new jeans patterns when they get released. I have always loved this idea and I think its one of many things that really sets Workroom Social apart from other sewing workshops. I just show up to teach the class I cant take this class on the road because its not really my class to run off with (yes, I understand that pants-making isnt exactly proprietary here; its more about being respectful for what Jennifer has built and not moonlighting it behind her back) Also, Jennifer is my assistant in that class I cant teach it without her! Finch Knitting & Sewing Studio, Leesburg, VA. Join me for another open sewing workshop, this time in beautiful Leesburg, VA at Finch Sewing Studio! Then I use a buttonhole gauge to reposition the remaining buttonholes, using the bust point mark as an anchor point. Im back with another jeans post! Not one to be defeated by something as silly as fabric requirements (pfft), I spent a couple hours one evening working on a giant puzzle of fitting every single pattern piece on my fabric. Workroom Social also speeds things up by having the patterns pre-traced and cut, and also providing lunch in the studio. Ive had to slow my roll a bit lately because I ended up with waaaay more pairs of pants that I can seriously, feasibly wear during the course of winter (I never wear pants in the summer unless Im on an airplane or in a movie theater, where its always fucking freezing and Im really impressed with people who can manage it. This was a huge remnant I think I paid $20 for 3 yards. Honestly, my machine doesnt really have issues sewing button holes on any of my jeans but it was fun to try something different! The pattern calls for 16, and mine was 9 long (not that I bought the wrong size, its just that I had this perfectly coordinating pink zip in my stash that was DETERMINED to use, shortness be damned). They are HUGE and super deep! Mine is a lot more flared than the original inspiration- which is perfect in this drapey silk (seriously, Ive never seen a raw silk this thin and drapey and omg I love it so much). I think that about covers it! ANYWAY. Are you taking any workshops next year? I also snuck a little L on the coin pocket bartack, because why not? I had LOTS of ideas but ultimately realized that my current style go-to is anything with a collar. That post is from 2010, btw, see what I mean? Usually Im pretty good about leaving myself notes, but apparently not this time!). Now let me show you some close-up detail shots while I also instruct you not to look too closely. Workroom Social, Brooklyn, NY. With an ultra-high rise and four leg options (slim, straight, wide, and shorts), these are made with non-stretch denim and look like your classic jeans from the 70s/80s. Ill be going back to Brooklyn to teach the Jeans Making Intensive in November and I cant wait! Aaaand now that is the last of my polka dot bias Ive been using it on the inside of garments for YEARS (its first appearance was with this trench coat haha), surprised its hung around my sewing room this long! Personally, I find it way more comfortable! It will look totally wrong at this point. Two dates for this one! Or take a break! As always, let me know if you have questions and I will do my best to answer them! This is unnecessarily fussy and I dont know about you, but I always end up with a little section of facing that didnt get stitched down. After finishing the entire dress with beautiful French seams, it felt lazy to throw in a zipper with serged edges. FABRIC: The Claryville uses denim with a very low stretch (I have heard rumors of people using non-stretch fabric to make this with great results, although I havent tried it myself), unlike the Gingers, which are stretch. In the past, I (and probably most of yall) have attached it the waistband from the right side, then turned the facing (inside) to the inside and pinned it, then topstitched from the outside. This ended up working out perfectly because Workroom Social is moving toward offering a different pattern for future jeans classes (something that is a bit more size-inclusive than the Ginger because, as Im sure you know, there are plenty of people who fall outside the max size range in that pattern), so I can continue to offer workshops that feature this specific pattern without being in competition with other workshops that I teach. I dont use my front pockets much so this doesnt super bother me for this pair, but Ill be making them quite a bit more shallow on future pairs (except for my shorts, which obviously need some pockets hanging out of the front so I look like the hussy that I am). Seeing as Ive washed and dried them probably a dozen times since finishing them, I should probably go ahead and re-hem. I like that its a medium blue color, instead of the dark wash that most shops carry. I have the hems rolled up in these pictures, but Ive been wearing them full length lately. Care-wise, I wash my rayon on cold and either tumble dry low or hang to dry (depending on whether I feel like ironing after the fact which is usually no, so usually a hang-dry haha). That whole process might have actually been worse than the French seamed right angles, to be honest! Overall, I think the finished pattern is absolutely fabulous and Im really proud of Jennifer for all the work she put into it to make it so great! Speaking of buttons arent they a good color match for those eyes? Ginger Jeans Workshop I also came into a little surprise when I realized that I didnt have a long enough invisible zipper for the side seam! Im sorry to say that I have absolutely no idea what weight it is, but it started out fairly rigid and has softened up with multiple washings. They are hemmed slightly long; I wanted to make sure they were washed enough to get the shrink out before I hemmed them to the proper length. Sorry. Construction-wise, these go together like any other pair of jeans (although I will give a big shoutout to the 3/4 side and inseam allowances which make fit tweaking SO MUCH EASIER!). I know someone is going to ask me about the denim I used, and heres my answer: I know nothing about it! Im going to wear these a bit more and see if that happens with this fabric, before I slice up the calf and add more room on future pairs. . I used French seams everything yes, including the gathered waist and that corner that connects the gathered piece to the front. To do this, I drew the lines with chalk and a ruler, and stitched over them with topstitching thread. I decided to take that look and run with it, and make another shirt dress. When you turn the ends right side out, the waistband should fall right into place, covering the seam allowances. Hm, what else? I love shirtdresses. This pattern is the Alder Shirtdress from Grainline Studio, in view B. I will confess that I wasnt crazy about view B when the pattern was first released but after seeing several versions made in drapey fabric, I was sold. Ive gotten a lot of questions about my workshops and classes, so here is a compiled list of FAQs if youve got a burning one youve yet to ask! Create a free website or blog at WordPress.com. Its a Grainline Studio Hemlock Tee (which is free if you join their newsletter). As a fun side note, each pair of jeans has a different colored zipper. It took some practice to find that sweet spot, but its pretty really life-changing in terms of being able to wear button-up anything and have it fit properly across the bust without gaping. It was a surprisingly enlightening experience for me. You can use a spray stabilizer to make the fabric even easier to handle, but I usually just throw all shits to the wind and sew it up in its slinky glory. For fun, I timed myself the first pair took 52 minutes, but by the time I sewed that last pair I was actually down to 32 minutes! The arm holes are hem are finished with bias facing. I say this often, and it often bears repeating no one comes to this blog for the stunning photography amirite. Students have 4 hours to try on the samples, choose their size, cut or trace their patterns, make basic fitting adjustments if needed, and then cut and mark their fabric! My TNT, my desert-island pattern. I will admit, I didnt get to wear these as much as I had anticipated because its been soooo hot here, but theyve finally had their place in the spotlight these past couple of weeks. The back is my favorite part! I spent a few days in San Francisco at the beginning of this year, and while I had some fun things planned (like going to the Computer History Museum and nerding out so hard), I didnt even consider my fabric shopping options bc I figured anything worth visiting would be in Los Angeles. I debated on a few design elements on this shirt that I ultimately did not end up doing black piping at the collar and button band, rounding the collar to be a peter pant collar, black topstitching I felt it was best to keep things simple and let the fabric be the star of this garment. It provides the right amount of support, but doesnt interfere with the rayons drape. Everything that makes the class happen including that giant stash of pre-made muslins that students try on the first day is handled by WS. Finally, I sewed a flat hook and eye at the waist seam (I think this looks more polished than putting a button right there, plus, its easier to wear a belt with this dress when its flat right there), and added chain loops to the side seams (for the aforementioned belt). TBH, I find it quite fool-proof and I think the instructions given are **far** easier than any other multi-piece fly instructions Ive come across. This time, the pattern is McCalls 7351, in view A. It has some soft wrinkles at the seams, but nothing super dramatic. Then, starting with the largest size and working my way down I sewed each pair of jeans from start to finish. Just kidding. ): I always strive to give my students the very best experience, and give them my full undivided attention during the entirety of the class. so, again, if youre considering this one, better snap that shit up ASAP , Weekend Pants-Making Intensive Familiarity with all sizes: Ok, this was NOT something I anticipated up front, but in hindsight this was a nice perk! I changed the construction of the top to mimic that of the Elizabeth Suzann swapped out the facings for topstitched bias facings, and used French seams. Ok I swear Im wrapping up! A: I get this question pretty frequently, and unfortunately my answer is always no. I find this to be a very positive overall experience, both in terms of people actually learning shit and also keeping the vibes of the class high. Like in a really creepy way almost haha. The black buttons are also from Textile Fabrics (and they were stupid expensive because they were ~imported from Italy~ ugh I mean come on), and the pocket lining is some black linen I had in my stash. I also made my shirt, by the way! March 24th 25th Just soak it for 15-25 minutes, squeeze the water out, and dry it. In case you forgot, I still really love making pants. Based on what my students tell me, this is not always the case which kind of makes me sad, and also explains why there are lots of people who get scared off from sewing after a single class. Tags: a gathering of stitches, closet case patterns, completed, darrell thomas textiles, denim, ginger jeans, Grainline Studio, Hemlock Tee, jeans, jeans workshop, pants, pintuck and purl, robert kaufman, stitch sew shop, workroom social, workshops. I cant even tell yall how much I love my dealer highly recommend them if you are in Nashville and shopping for a Bernina! Happy Friday, yall! It is thick so you get the nice look of topstitching, but not as thick as the stuff that most fabric stores carry (which I find most home sewing machines dont like at all). This is the same concept as my other open sewing workshops there is no set project, you just bring whatever you wanna work on! I also used the method outlined in the pattern for inserting the collar and collar stand, rather than my usual method (which is this one, if youre curious!). ), but the pattern is designed for low to no stretch. These photos were taken after a couple of days wear, and you can see that they are still pretty slim-fitting. Faster students can blaze ahead and not be bored, and the slower students arent stressed about keeping up. Once I landed on my first day, I had some free time to kill and decided to walk around for a bit. The pattern is the Sway Dress from Papercut Patterns, shortened to shirt length and sewn with a very lightweight raw silk that I bought in Egypt. While I do not have samples available in this pattern, you can absolutely use it to take my classes and get you a pair of jeans that fits YOU. Here are my upcoming classes through the beginning of May (you can also see these on my Classes Page ), Sew Your Own Jeans Weekend Workshop!